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Inside the Congress Bhavan premises, the beat of the dhak, the smoke of coconut husk in the dhunuchi and the smell of khichuri together create a corner of Bengal in the heart of Pune. The Sarvajanik Durgapuja, now in its 87th year, is drawing steady crowds this festive season, with organisers saying tradition remains the anchor even as the celebration modernises.

“We follow the same rituals,” an organiser said, adding that nothing in the sequence of worship has changed over the decades. The programme covers Bodhibas, Saptami, Ashtami, Navami and Lakshmi Puja, while evenings are given over to cultural events. Art competitions and programmes for different age groups run alongside dhunuchi nach, the signature Durga Puja dance in which participants balance earthen urns of burning coconut husk and fragrance.

Authenticity is a point of pride. Nearly 90 per cent of the stalls return every year, many run by traders from Kolkata. The food stalls are largely Bengali, the cooks have come from Kolkata, and even the dhak, the traditional drum, has been brought from the city. Some of the spices used in the kitchen are carried from Bengal as well.

Religious stalls include one on Swami Vivekananda run by the Maa Anandamayi Ashram. For the past two years, the committee has also hosted a stall run by members of the transgender community, which organisers say has drawn a good response. “We do not want to leave anybody out,” the organiser said.

The daily bhog is open to everyone. The traditional menu of khichuri, labra (a Bengali mixed vegetable preparation), a vegetable side and payesh is served on most days. For those wanting variety, Basanti pulao and fried rice with aloo dum make an appearance on other days. Pushpanjali is offered from 9 am to noon, and bhog is served from 1 pm to around 4 pm. The pandal stays open from 6 am to midnight.

This year’s idol departs from the usual style. Inspired by the Konark Sun Temple, it carries a darker tinge and architectural motifs drawn from the Odisha monument. The committee felt it was time for a change after years of the older design.

The inauguration was performed by singer Usha Mangeshkar and her family. Guests over the festival have included Naval Kishore Ram, Madhavrao Jagtap and Pune Police Commissioner Amitesh Kumar.

The most notable change this year is behind the scenes. The committee brought in a dedicated face to coordinate with the Food and Drug Administration, and organisers say they worked with the department for about a month. The water was tested, and only approved containers were used. New cans and pipes were bought. Serving staff wear caps, gloves, aprons and masks, and the cooks underwent medical tests and use aprons and headgear while cooking. The organiser said the inspection was electronically recorded, and the committee has requested an FDA tag from Pune. He suggested few pandals in the city have followed the guidelines so thoroughly.

The festival turns emotional at Vijayadashami, which the committee will observe after Maha Navami according to the Panchang. At its heart is Nari Shakti, the idea of the goddess as a daughter returning home and being sent off with affection. Women bid her farewell with Sindoor Khela, smearing vermilion on each other and on the face of the idol. The immersion of the large idol will follow the green norms laid down by the Pune Municipal Corporation.

Durga Puja in Kolkata has earned a GI tag, and the organiser said he hopes the Congress Bhavan celebration will one day be recognised in a similar way. For now, he said, the invitation is simple: come for the bhog and “get a touch of Bengal.”